Review: Barocco's, Fence

6:02pm Monday 17th November 2008

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THERE’S something special about eating at an Italian restaurant. Somehow the atmosphere is always more warm and welcoming.

It’s probably just in my mind and others have other opinions.

But take our visit to Barocco’s, tucked down the deliciously named Cuckstool Lane between Fence and Brierfield.

We were one of the first to arrive for the evening sitting. It was our first visit but the smiles and greetings we received from a variety of staff made me feel like we were mistaken for a couple who must dine there five times a week!

But as other groups entered I realised the welcome was generously bestowed to everyone.

The head waiter in Italian-style apron fastened by a cumberbund high above his midrift looked as if he had walked staight in from Milan. He commanded his staff quietly too, with magnificent efficiency.

Each course was served by a battalion of staff. One carrying the plates, one the parmesan, one the pepper and of course the ever-mindful head honcho who just kept his troops in courteous line.

Our pomodoro garlic and tomato bread was simple in execution, scrumptious in taste — a perfect appetiser for what was to follow.

I treated myself to a chicken liver starter in rich red wine jus. Mrs S enjoyed a plate of mushrooms on a bed of rocket, fried off to perfection.

My only complaint was there was far too much.

The main courses of pollo piccante ( I can never resist a dish that offers a chilli or two) and a house special tagliatelli again left little to be desired.

Freshness was of the essence and the cherry tomatoes in the sauce served with the chicken added to the Mediterranean ambience of the dish.

Washed gently down with a bottle of highly acceptable house wine at only £10.95, the whole eating experience had been most enjoyable.

The offer of a sweets menu had to be politely turned down although two espressos taken in the lounge rounded things off nicely.

BAROCCO’S, Cuckstool Lane, Fence.

The verdict

An Italian welcome, super service and food to match.